Sunday, June 21, 2009

Making Legal “U-Turns”

So you’re creating a new fragrance and it’s coming along great. You decide Mandarin would compliment your scent nicely as a light accent. So you add just one tiny little drop of Mandarin, smell it, and whoa!

That’s no accent, it completely took over your fragrance!

You may think the only solution is to rinse out your mixing glass and start over (and don’t even dream of adding any Mandarin this time). But go back to the reason you thought to add Mandarin in the first place – because you felt it would be a great addition to your scent.

Well, it still can be, you just need to make a “U-Turn” and back out some of that Mandarin. You can fix your scent so it’s as if you had only added a half-drop, or even a quarter-drop of that Mandarin. This works even with the most strong and powerful scents.

Always try solution 1 (below) first. If that doesn’t work, move to solution 2.

Solution #1:
The first thing to do after adding a drop that ends up too strong or just “not right” is to take a disposable dropper and mix your perfume oils right in the mixing glass. The best way to do this is to “suck up” and “squirt out” your oils several times.

Sometimes the most recent perfume oil you added to your mixing glass is sitting on top of the rest of the perfume oils (similar to how salad dressing separates and all the oil sinks to the bottom). Try this first and smell again.

A lot of times the new scent added isn’t overpowering, it’s just the only scent you can smell because it’s sitting on top of the other scents and cloaking them. Mixing your blend before smelling it will give you a more accurate representation of the fragrance. If doing this doesn’t work, and your new addition is still overpowering, move to option 2.

Solution #2:
Turn to your My Scent In Progress sheet to take note of everything you have in your mixing glass. Now add everything – your entire recipe thus far – into your mixing glass again, only leaving out the latest scent that is overpowering (Mandarin in the above example).

For example, if your My Scent In Progress sheet says you have the following:

3 Brown Sugar
1 Fig
2 Vanilla
1 Mandarin (most recently added, and way too strong)

You will add everything in again so at the end, your My Scent In Progress sheet will say the following:

6 Brown Sugar
2 Fig
4 Vanilla
1 Mandarin (because you didn’t add in extra Mandarin)


Now mix your oils together as in solution 1 above, and smell it.

What you have just done is cut your Mandarin ratio in half. It’s as if you only added 1/2 drop of Mandarin before. Mandarin will now have half the bearing on your fragrance as it did before.

If Mandarin is still too strong at this point, add the whole recipe back in again and it will smell as if you added 1/4 drop of Mandarin.

Just make sure you update your My Scent In Progress sheet with the new doubled numbers. Your My Scent In Progress sheet should always represent exactly the number of drops that are in your mixing glass.

If solution 2 doesn’t work, it probably means Mandarin wasn’t a good choice for your blend. With practice, you’ll become very familiar with mixing fragrances and you may decide in some cases that Mandarin (or the particular scent at hand) is a “no-go” and it’s not even worth it to try solution 2. You’ll get a knack for this in time.

How do you know when it's time to start all over?
When your fragrance smells like something from the janitor’s closet. Bug spray. Turpentine. This is when to realize there’s no turning back. Try your scent again without the Mandarin. (And let it be known that I have nothing against Mandarin. In fact, I love Mandarin! I just needed an example.)

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